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If you pray, pray for India – Jaisalmer, India

By Lauren Girardin

Fri, December 5, 2008

Bug eyed statue, Jain Temple - Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

Bug eyed statue at Jain Temple | Photo by Lauren Girardin

A slim two weeks before the recent terrorist attacks in Mumbai, Todd and I checked India off our round-the-world itinerary. From the safety of Vietnam, it's been disconcerting to reflect on our time in India, but here we go:

There's a lot of time for conversation with shop owners in Jaisalmer, and not just because it's a remote, small town about as far west as you can get in Rajasthan without trekking by camel into the Thar Desert.

"Since the bombings in Delhi, is many less tourists coming here. They are afraid, but Jaisalmer is very safe. Rajasthan is safe. India is safe! But, look – you see? You are my only customers today."

Normally in India, that last part is a line of bull. But, we've had the shop to ourselves for an hour – there's definitely something wrong. We're able to take our time browsing through heaps of brightly colored patchwork quits, some of which are works of art, made from old Pakistani knit skull caps or the sparkly wedding dresses of village women.

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Patchwork seller in Jaisalmer | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Though experience tells him we're not buying, the shop owner goes through the motions anyway, unfolding bedspread size quilts at our bare feet until they are layered deep enough for a scene from the Princess and the Pea. More than the potential for business, he seems happy to have someone to talk to over cups of hot, spicy sweet chai.

"And Jaisalmer has had not enough rain for the past four years. Many cows die. Mostly camels left and those are expensive – they are for tourist camel safaris. And the tourists don't come."

Even though Jaisalmer is over 700 miles from Mumbai – about the same distance as Manhattan is from Charleston, South Carolina – there's no doubt that Jaisalmer will be seeing fewer tourists in the months, if not years to come because of the Mumbai terror attacks.

Just after the Mumbai attacks began, Todd and I were relieved to get an email from Hardik, one of our new friends from India. After assuring us that he and his family were safe at home in Gujarat, far from Mumbai, he told us that "Whole India is under deep shock. As you know, the people of India, they are very kind and calm. So instead of giving fight to terrorism in American or Israel style, they pray to god to stop violence!"

Salim Singh-ki Haveli - Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

Salim Singh-ki Haveli in Jaisalmer | Photo by Lauren Girardin

As Americans who have watched the relentless escalation of President Bush's war on terror since September 11, Todd and I are reassured by Hardik's estimation of India's measured reaction to the Mumbai tragedy. We just pray Hardik's hope proves true.

Travel Tips – Jaisalmer, India

Where we ate:

Natraj - The cooks seem to have tamed down the spice for the tourists, which is a shame: NAH
Saffron - A fancy-schmancy place with a nice view of the fort and spicy, local Rajasthan dishes, including plenty of meat options if you're feeling deprived. Their beer is a little pricy, but scarcity will do that (it's not always easy to find booze in Rajasthan): YEH
Chandan Shree Restaurant - This is a nothing fancy place for thali where you'll be surrounded by local tourists and rickshaw drivers, which is always a good sign. At less than $3 USD for a all-you-can eat thali, it's a tasty steal: YEH
The Trio - Another solid place for highly flavored local dishes: YEH

Where we stayed:

Hotel Golden City - It has a pool, and a clean one at that, a rare find in Rajasthan backpacker hotels. The staff may not have gone to charm school, but they came through when we needed them to: YEH

What we saw:

Salim Singh-ki-Haveli - Admittedly, this was the only haveli we toured, but it was fascinating. The family that lives there gives the tours, and considering the Indian government gives them no help, they're doing a wonderful job. Even the shopping is higher quality than elsewhere. We would have bought some brassware if we weren't traveling long-term: YEH
Jaisalmer rickshaws - Since it's no longer eco-friendly to stay within the fort, you will inevitably have to take a rickshaw to your hotel. Take time to find one that has all the fixings, Bollywood pin-ups, colored lights, and a booming dance soundtrack: YEH
Jain Temples - It's a bit of a madhouse at the cluster of Jain temples inside the fort. It's difficult to tell which temple is which, the monks hit you up for donations after a brief minute of broken English descriptions, and the touts are waiting for you outside. But, the temples are interesting stops in your fort tour: YEH
Bhatia News Agency - Piles of books, though mostly romance stinkers. You'll need time to hunt for something readable and will have to bargain to get a decent price: MEH
Government Haveli - Located in the cluster of havelis, this is one not worth going in. There's just nothing special about it and it is overpriced: NAH