Never mind the tigers – Ranthambore, India (Part 2)

Save tiger sign in Ranthambore, India | Photo by Lauren Girardin

> Missed Part 1? Read it!

After a second fruitless day of tiger spotting in Ranthambore National Park, India, Todd and I are sharing a drink with the Patels, a Gujarati family on their Diwali vacation. It's dark but still early – the town adjacent to Ranthambore, called Sawai Madhopur, is a small place with little to offer beyond hanging out at your hotel once the safari winds down.

We met the Patels last night at a special Rajasthani dinner and traditional dance performance at our hotel. The Patels cheered on as Todd and I each took a turn dancing with the performers, and were surprised that we had a few Indian-style moves.

Tonight, over big bottles of Kingfisher beer and spicy vegetable pakora, we tell Hardik and his wife Suhani how we got our first introduction to Indian dancing in the streets of Chennai at our friends Raja and Sarah's wedding, four years ago on our first trip to India. Hearing of quick affinity for the food, people, pace, movies, and even the train rides, Hardik declares "You are both probably Indian in a past life!" Though we don't believe in reincarnation, this conclusion still somehow makes perfect sense to me and Todd.

(Faithful email and RSS readers, please visit www.ephemerratic.com to read the rest of the dispatch. Full feeds appear impossible.)

Todd twirls with Rajasthani dancer | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Later, after hours of conversation about culture and politics, work and play, love and marriage, and Gujarat and California, Hardik tells us,"I have no problem understanding your English. Usually with Americans the words all run together." Abashed, Todd and I admit that we speak differently in India, with a clipped, broken cadence to make ourselves understood. We know that our California drag with its note of New Yawkah is hard hearing for non-native English speakers.

As the night grows late and the mosquitoes bold, we've spent many hours talking with Hardik and Suhani. There's an easy familiarity. They remind Todd and I of the friends we've had since high school – curious, caring, genuine, and proudly a little nerdy.

And generous – hearing that we're heading in the same direction tomorrow, Hardik and Suhani invite me and Todd to ride to Jaipur with their family, which also includes Hardik's parents, Mr. and Mrs. Patel, and young sons, Sparsh and Helish. It's an offer we can't refuse. Not only do we get to skip a long bus and longer train ride, but we get to spend more time with the Patels. How often does a traveler get to not only meet locals, but also spend time with them and their family on a road trip? We love road trips.

Todd, Lauren and the Patels

It's a cozy ride – including the driver there are seven adults and two kids in the minivan. Suhani, Sparsh, and I sprawl in the hatchback, lounging on a thin mattress laid over our suitcases while Todd sits in the seat ahead with Hardik. We chat constantly over the next several hours, showing each other photos of our homes and families, and looking at Todd's art. Helish, the older son, treats Todd and I to magic tricks, jokes, and brain teasers, with his father Hardik as his helpful assistant. In return, Todd and I try to tell a few knock-knock jokes, only to realize that knock-knocks are not universal. As soon as we try to explain why a knock-knock joke is funny, it loses its humor in translation.

We stop for a late lunch in a random town. There we learn that Gujaratis don't save dessert for last; instead, they take tastes of sweet gulab jamun in between bites of savory thali. Though we're nowhere on the tourist radar, it's one of the best thalis Todd and I have had in Rajasthan, which may have as much to do with company as the food.

Portrait of Todd Berman | Art by Sparsh Patel

Even while eating, Todd - of course - starts to draw, encouraging Sparsh and Helish to draw too. Soon, all our attention is on the three artists, who shoot furtive glances across the table while sketching each other's portraits. At the end, it's a draw - Todd trades his portait of Sparsh and Helish for the ones that each of the boys made of him.

There's a moment as we're leaving the restaurant when little Sparsh suddenly becomes very upset. It takes a few minutes for Hardik to figure out that Sparsh is bugging because he thought that Todd threw away the drawing he made. Todd squats down in front of Sparsh and pulls the drawing out of the pocket of his Moleskein, saying "I've got it. I'll always keep it"

(Hey Sparsh – Don't worry, Todd still has the drawing. Plus, now everyone can see it on our website too!)

A few hours later, the Patels drop us off at our hotel in Jaipur and we say our goodbyes. Tomorrow, the Patels head to the local zoo for a guaranteed tiger sighting, while Todd and I will check out the Pink City's palace and museum. We hope to see the Patels in a couple of years when they plan to visit California, or when Todd and I return to India and visit the Patels in Gujarat, where Hardik promises to "manage our show."

Travel Tips – Chittor, Bundi, and Ranthambore, India

Portrait of the artists Sparsh and Helish | Art by Todd Berman

Where we ate:

• Shakti Restaurant at Hotel Paratap Palace, Chittorgarh – If you're just passing through or day tripping, hey'll hold your bags while you visit the fort. In exchange, you should probably eat at their restaurant, which isn't very good, but is convenient: MEH
• Hadee Rani Guesthouse, Bundi – There are few places to eat in Bundi besides the hotel restaurants. We looked. So, tired of the mediocre food at our hotel, we at at Hadee Rani. It was excellent, considering the alternatives, especially the pumpkin and fennel curry. The owner, Chintu, made for a great dinner companion and helped us find our Ranthambore hotel: YEH
• Jodhana Restaurant, Dausa(?) - The menu is only in Hindi, but just say "thali" and you'll be in heaven: YEH

Where we stayed:

• Kasera Heritage View, Bundi – The rooms were huge, and they provided a large squeegee for guests to use after showering to dry off the bathroom floor. But, there are probably better – and quieter – deals in town, like Hadee Rani Guesthouse (see above). Their rooftop restaurant had bland, uninteresting food, even after we asked for our dishes "very spicy": MEH
• Vatika Resort, Ranthambore – Also known as "Vatika Lodge" on some websites. A small compound of bungalows with a nice lawn. The food is well done, if overpriced. The internet never worked while we were there. Still, a friendly environment to meet other travelers, particularly Indians. Their website and contact info is hard to find so here it is - www.ranthambhoretigers.com, owner Vishnu's mobile +91 09251086627, email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it : YEH

What we saw:

• Chittorgarh (Chittor's fort) - We got stuck transferring trains in Chittor, so we decided to visit the fort, a sprawling complex of buildings, including a very cool tower. The rest of the fort was just ok. Unless you have a transfer to make, it's probably not worth the detour and the rickshaw hassle you need to go through: MEH
• Garh Palace, Bundi – Room after room of stunning frescos in a quickly crumbling building. Bring a flashlight: YEH
• Chitrasala, Bundi – More stunning frescos and hordes of pissed of monkeys. Bring your own big stick or be prepared to fend off the touting of the caretaker beat back the monkeys for you and who also unlocks the cage protecting the art from the monkeys: YEH
• Roshan's Fastest Internet in Bundi - Saying this is the fastest connection is not saying much. We spent as much time waiting for the internet to work as we did using it. Still, they won't charge you for the downtime if you insist that they shouldn't: MEH
• Ranthambore Safaris - Do your research. We didn't. It turns out that in November, when we were there, there is only a 20 percent chance of seeing one of the increasingly scarce tigers. A traveler we met had to go on five safaris to score a sighting. Even without tigers, the landscape is beautiful, and there are tons of deer, antelope, and birds. The park management is facing some serious international criticism over the vanishing tiger population, so it's also worth checking for recent complaints before spending your money there: YEH
• Booking a Ranthambhore Safari - Every day, twice a day, absolute mayhem ensues on the line for one of the limited safari seats. If you are claustrophobic or just don't like being closely sandwiched between anxious Indian men in very hot weather, you might want to book through your hotel or see if you can't get your girlfriend/wife to try to start a Ladies' Line, which just might cause a near riot when the men realize what's going on: NAH

Photos from Chittor, Bundi and Ranthambore, India

If you can't see the photo slide show above, view the photo set on Flickr.

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Angel Jan 5, 2009 | Hi Lauren & Todd, Happy '09 & cheers to many more exotic adventures! I'm so sorry to hear about your Aunt Jul, Lauren. Peace and hugs to you and your family. love, angel Reply | Quote

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