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Strolling a local's path in Philadelphia

Dispatches

By Lauren Girardin

Fri, July 25, 2008

The Stroll | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Our visit to Philadelphia started and ended with cheap, flavorful Caribbean soul food bought from a truck. In between, Todd and I grazed on must-do cheesesteaks, held off the effects of a heatwave with refreshing water ice, and spent a "minit" walking around the funkier, local side of the city.

Taking a taste of a local's Philadelphia was exactly what we'd been looking for. As my brother Mike said "You don't wanna be a tourist, you wanna be an explorer." These wise words from someone 10 years my junior, who's never left the U.S. or had a passport.

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To Explore! | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Mike wasn't aware of how appropriate his comment was - in Philly I was happy to find an timely oversized version of the definition of 'explorer' on an exhibit wall at the tiny American Philosophical Society.

I particularly relate to the "scrutinize" part of the definition.

For the most part, we shied away from or reinterpreted what it meant to visit Philly's Old City attractions. Instead of getting up close and personal with the Liberty Bell, we stood back and enjoyed people-watching the crowd that jostled for a view of the cracked icon. Rather than paying a steep $12 admission to The Constitution Center, we toured the gift shop, reveling in the bizarre assortment of bobble heads (why were Jackie O, Barbara Bush, and Jesse Jackson the only ones for sale?) and other tchotchkes for the capitalistically patriotic or the patriotically capitalistic, take your choice. And though we never made it inside the historic building, Todd reminded me that Independence Hall is where "a lot of sweaty men in funny wigs and short pants debated and orated for days, united by a national vision, chaos, and spittoons."

Make a Donation | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Between these sights, we were shown around by friends and family who were determined to share their favorite to-dos. Whether we were being feted at The Saloon by Uncle Bob or escorted around the Magic Garden by Jennie and Amos, we felt embraced by Philly.

What we saw:

Bolt Bus – All NewYawkers, get thee cheaply to Philly: YEH
National Mechanics Bar and Restaurant - We unknowingly sat down just in time for Irish John's pub quiz. I didn't trust my instincts so we didn't get the Jim Thorpe photo question right: YEH
Reading Terminal Market – A large, casual, and diverse mix of specialty groceries and restaurants: YEH
American Philosophical Society
Liberty Bell – The National Parks Service seems unduly concerned that terrorists may want to attack our cracked bell. I don't get it: MEH
Franklin Court - A sad, outdated, dank museum: NAH
The Magic Gardens - Though you can spy Isaiah Zagar's mosaic murals throughout Philly, this Garden is a tribute to obsessive artistry: YEH
Italian Market – Very mellow when we went by (it was, after all, 97 degrees), but you could see the potential: YEH

Where we ate and drank:

Denise's Soul Food Restaurant – The line was longer at a different truck for a reason. The curry chicken was divine, the sides were ok. It's the pink truck near the transit center: YEH
Dutch Eating Place in the Reading Terminal Market – Why do the Amish use styrofoam for their coffee? Because the butter alongside the pancakes will kill you before the coffee's chemicals will. All kidding aside, blueberry pancakes and turkey bacon: YEH
Rick's Steaks in the Reading Terminal Market – The line of office workers on lunch break was long and they were right, our first cheesesteak in Philly was scrumptious: YEH
Jon's Bar & Grille – How do you judge a place where you only had one beer? We judge it: NAH
The Saloon - We likened it to the Wonder Bar of Philly, a comparison that only Berman family members will understand. The service sucked, which doesn't however change the good time we had with Uncle Bob: NAH
Sam's Morning Glory Diner - Their cranky staff could use a tune up. Oh, whatever, the food was generously portioned and good: YAH
12 Steps Down – A dive bar with nice staff, some creaky regulars, and a lot to be desired: NAH
Rita's Water Ice - It's hot outside. The water ice (really pronounced "wutah ice" is cold: YAH
Campo's At Market - When the staff saw us walk in wearing our backpacks, they kicked off a friendly and curious conversation about our trip. Todd said the affordably priced cheesesteak was tasty (mine got cold, which doesn't work): YEH
GiGi's (parked near 30th St Station, 610-389-2150) – How could rice and beans be that good? The vegetarian plate of four dishes was a fantastic finale to our Philly food tour: YEH