Sharing everything four ways, Donostia-San Sebastián, Spain (wrap-up)

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By Lauren Girardin    Sun, October 12, 2008
Todd and pintxo, Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain
Todd with pintxo | Photo by Lauren Girardin

Todd and I spend our last day in Donostia-San Sebastián with the Baron and Baroness hiking Monte Urgull and making DIY picnic pintxos from bread, jamón, romesco sauce, and queso while sheltering from the rain under a centuries-old stone archway.

We end with an evening filled with rounds of txakoli and many plates filled with the foodie heaven-on-a-toothpick. You know you are too comfortably co-dependent with friends when the four of you take a bite out of the same pintxo.

Since it's approaching midnight, the Baron and Baroness don their backpacks and head off to catch their overnight train to Barcelona. Having had enough overnight trips for a while, Todd and I have opted for an early morning bus instead. We'll meet up tomorrow in Barcelona.

While Todd hits the shower, I hustle to get ready for bed since my belly full of pintxos is already putting me to sleep. I hear an unfamiliar noise coming from Todd's daypack: it's his cell phone.

Before I answer, I realize this can be nothing good. There are only two people that have our temporary Spanish phone number, and they should have boarded their train by now.

(Faithful email and RSS readers, please visit www.ephemerratic.com to read the rest of the dispatch. Full feeds appear impossible.)

Farewell with backpacks, or so we thought, Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain
Farewell with backpacks, or so we though | Photo by Lauren Girardin

"Hello?"

It's the Baron. "Hi Lauren. So, um, we missed our train. We had the time wrong."

"Oh no! That sucks! What are you going to do?"

"Well, we're going to walk to the bus station and see if there's one leaving tonight. But if not...."

"Ok, if there's no bus, you head back here. There's enough space for you to sleep in our room, no problem. Then, hopefully you can get on the morning bus with us. Give us a call whether you get the bus ticket or not so we know either way."

Todd comes back from the shower and I break the news. Lest anyone get the wrong idea, the Baron and Baroness are among the smartest people we know. They survived a long winter night of sub-zero temperatures by building a snow cave. They've renovated a house from the damages wrought by a chain-smoking, hoarding, senile old woman. They designed a monumental shade structure that safely sheltered thirty people from apocalyptic dust storms at Burning Man.

Plethora of pintxos at Ormazabal Etxea, Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain
Plethora of pintxos at Ormazabal Etxea | Photo by Lauren Girardin

We're not just saying this because we might need to live in their guest room for a while if go over budget on our round-the world trip.

Soon enough, the Baron calls back. There's no way they're getting out of San Sebastián tonight, so they're on their way back to our hotel, Pension Arsuaga. After I hang up, I unfold the handy 1980s style convertible foam chair/bed – which had seemed superfluous and tacky until now – layer some extra blankets, and unfold our travel sheets to arrange two makeshift beds on the floor.

I welcome the the Baroness back with a big hug; she's really upset with herself for remembering the wrong time. I try to humor up the moment, saying "You know, we really appreciate it, but you don't need to keep doing screwing up just to help me and Todd come up with stories for our website. Anyway, have I told you about the time Todd and I missed our flight out of India?"

Travel Tips, Donostia-San Sebastián, Basque Country, Spain

Where we ate:

  • Kaskazuri - Has a nice, affordable pre-fixe menu with a lot of choices, and also includes wine. We felt a little screwed however, when we realized that our table of four got the same one bottle of wine that tables of two shared. What a load of hooey!: MEH
  • Restaurante Alberto - Fantastic seafood, including bachalau ajoarriero, and truly divine croqueta de jamón (urdaiazpiko kroketa in Basque). Their food is served up more tapas-style, but it's all very Basque. We went back: YEH
  • Bar Martinez - Very creative pintxos, including vegetarian options. Refreshing: YEH
  • Bidebide - Well la-tee-dah. This place rocked in a modern-pintxos kinda way. Admittedly, we had consumed three drinks during lunch before we made it here: YEH
  • Ormazabal Etxea - Really crowded with young tourists in a fun kinda way. They had some very good food, including snails in their shells baked with jamón and tomato. Pass on their squid boletas however, they are just greasy and bland. Otherwise a wonderful place with a wide selection of both classic and innovative pintxos: YEH
  • Common Sense, the Twelve Tribes Store - It was a relief to be able to buy some whole-grain hippie-style natural and organic foods. The cult thing was a bit off-putting. If you're a hippie, San Franciscan, health nut, or vegetarian/vegan: YEH

Where we stayed:

  • Pension Arsuaga - How to describe Pension Arsuaga? The owner wasn't there when we showed up, and when he arrived he was constantly singing along with his iPod. We stayed in their overflow location, and while we were happy that our room had enough floor space for overnight guests, it was noisy, mildewey, weird, but not a bad price all things considered. Oh, but be sure to lock your door behind you, as the owner does not understand privacy at all and may just barge in: MEH

What we saw:

  • Monte Urgull - A spectacular urban hike, even in a downpour: YEH
  • Castillo de Santa Cruz de la Mota - This is the castle area and museum at the top of Monte Urgull. The museum was kinda funny in a trying-too-hard kinda way. Their historical video re-enactments were especially kitschy. The giant Jesus statue is a bit much. But, since you hiked all the way up here, you might as well: MEH
  • La Concha beach How can a beach that has a small cafe with a full bar be bad? Well, it's not that big and even on a cold, drizzly day was packed to the gills. Still, it's a nice beach: YEH

Photos from Donostia-San Sebastián, Spain

If you can't see the photo slide show above, view the photo set on Flickr.


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Baroness Oct 14, 2008 |
Thanks guys, for all the qualifiers of how we're not prone to such activities! You did the story up good. I'm glad to see you're catching up with your posts. Keep 'em coming!
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