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 Dali Museum, Figures, Spain | Photo by Lauren Girardin After we say farewell to the Baron and Baroness, Todd and I skip out of Barcelona for a side trip through Catalonia, Spain. Mainly, we're indulging our artsy-fartsy side by wallowing in Daliwood.
Forgive me, but I can't help but relate the main Dali attractions - his home in Port Ligat and ego-tripping museum in Figueres - to a theme park like Dollywood.
Though both Dali sites are wonderful, mind-bending pilgrimage points for any artist looking to break a few rules, they are also overrun with massive tour and school groups snapping photos with cell phone cameras and mocking the guards when they try to enforce the "no flash" rule. All that's missing is a roller coaster, and the coastal town of Cadaques complies by carrying the tourists over the hill to Port Ligat in a kitschy trolley.
Surrealistically satiated, we head to Ripoll for distractions more bound to the ground. As we hike in the foothills of the Pyrenees, we are nearly gored by a feral cow on a steep, overgrown trail and face the constant threat of finding ourselves ankle-deep in fragrant cow patties. Beyond that, our day is filled with wild blackberries, boundless misty mountain views, and Catalan independence graffiti in the most unlikely of places.
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 Feral cow blocks the trail, Ripoll, Spain | Photo by Lauren Girardin Travel tips for Girona, Cadaques, Figures, Port Ligat, and Ripoll, in Catalonia, Spain
Where we ate:
- Trattoria Algianni, Cadaques – Yes, we admit it, we ate Italian food in Spain. The pasta was homemade and a nice change of pace. The patio seating is cliché perfect, we even had musicians come by who convinced the waitress to sing a couple of songs, just like a scene from Pedro Almodóvar's Volver: YEH
- Vinil, Girona – We'd been told that the food in Catalonia is some of the best in Spain, because of the proximity to France. They weren't kidding, this place was innovative and affordabe: YEH!!
- Creperie Bretonne, Girona – Very hip place, check out the bus inside the restaurant. The crepes were tasty, if a little dry: YEH
- Condis Supermercats, Ripoll – You can do some supermarket shopping just across from the bus station. Though it is a soul-less store, we managed to make a nice simple sandwhich from goat cheese, fresh bread, a giant bag of of pre-washed arugula, and some olives: YEH
- Costa Pastiss, Ripoll – Across the square from the main church/monastery, they had nosh-worthy sandwiches (like smoked salmon at breakfast!) and some food-porn worthy desserts, which we sadly didn't have room or time for: YEH
Where we stayed:
- Hostal Vehi, Cadaques – Our room faced a small plaza at the back of the church next-door, where each afternoon a singer with an accordion would provide the perfect background music: YEH
- Pension Viladomat, Girona - Ugh. They forgot we had a reservation and that they agreed to early check in, plus only with pressure would let us use the bathroom. The woman running the place is crazy: YEH!!
- Hostal La Paula, Ripoll – Nice enough place, clean, smells a bit like your grandmother's house. The wardrobes in our room, as is so often the case, were used for storage. Except the wife of the guy running the place was storing her extra prosthetic inside with the extra blankets: YEH
What we did:
- Museu Casa Dali, Port Ligat - Not sure anyone that isn't fully into Dali will appreciate this, since there are none of his famous paintings. The tour, which is the only way to enter, is pricey and short. Booking ahead required. It is a truly surreal home: YEH
- Teatre-Museu Dali, Figures - The town asked Dali to donate a painting and instead he built them a museum to himself. Now that's what I call self-love. Go at lunchtime when the tour groups vanish, if only briefly: YEH
- Free WiFi spots - We picked up free public WiFi outside the Catedral de Girona. Nice view and plenty of (concrete) seating: YEH
- Walking the city walls, Girona - A nice enough stroll, climb up the towers for a panoramic view of the countryside: YEH
- Catalan bus system - Not as well-run as buses elsewhere in Span. The posted schedules were often inaccurate, there was almost never anyone working at the station, and if there was a ticket person, they had truly lost their lust for life: MEH
- Hiking in Ripoll- Visit the tourist office for the trail map first. The trail we took will take up to twice as long as the map says if you're hiking for pleasure, not a workout. Trails are not well marked along the whole route, so there's some guessing involved, so bring a compass: YEH
Photos from Catalonia, Spain
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