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Lauren's the writing shutterbug. Todd's the artist. Together we have a bit of wanderlust. Learn more...

Ephemerratic - Independent travel blog with stories, travel guides, photos, travel art, and local food

Queso helado? That’s cheese ice cream! Well, I never.

May 9, 2013 by Lauren in Peru, Travel Stories with 4 Comments

Wherein does my cheeselove come from? In the U.S. we practically worship amber waves of cheddar and mozzarella mountain majesties, so there’s that patriotic peer pressure. And, although I’ve lived for 15 years in San Francisco, veganism — locally, one of the most popular radical diets — holds as little appeal as, well, giving up cheese does. Therein: my lifelong cheeselove.

Yet, despite my cheeselove ways, queso helado Arequipeño hadn’t made it onto my list of must-try foods in Arequipa, Peru.

That’s right: Cheese ice cream. Ponder that culinary concept for just a minute.

Queso helado cheese ice cream, Arequipa, Peru photo

Cheese ice cream has me so confused and so happy.

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Something about this city doesn’t click

May 3, 2013 by Lauren in Peru, Travel Stories with 2 Comments
Zapateria, Arequipa, Peru photo

Something tells me their shoes will suck

Who’s to decide when a city has really pulled together, gathering at least a few of its cultural tendrils into a civic identity that can cause visitors to feel connected to something vital and foreverafter refer to it as unforgettable?

Certainly not me. Certainly not after just a few days exploring.

Yet here I go, musing about Arequipa, Peru, despite my lack of qualifications.

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A plaza for people watching and conspiracy plotting

May 2, 2013 by Lauren in Peru, Travel Stories with 2 Comments

You don’t promenade in Arequipa, Peru’s Plaza de Armas. Not exactly. People wander about the main square, drifting from one group to another. They catch up with friends, kvetch about the cost of corn, plan vast conspiracies — it’s hard to tell exactly what they’re up to.

Shoelace vendor, Arequipa, Peru photo

No excuse for not tying one on

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Jarred hearts, dead nuns, and a spring bride: Arequipa’s Santa Catalina Convent

April 25, 2013 by Lauren in Peru, Travel Stories with 2 Comments

I’d been led to believe that a visit to Monasterio de Santa Catalina (Santa Catalina Monastery) in Arequipa, Peru would be a serene, beautiful experience.

Sure, sure. Except for the presence of death everywhere. Other than that, yeah, total bliss.

Dead nuns, Santa Catalina Monastery and Convent, Arequipa, Peru photo

They’re not sleeping. They’re dead.

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Peru’s finest petting zoo. No…wait.

March 22, 2013 by Lauren in Travel Stories with 4 Comments

There’s more to getting lunch at Arequipa, Peru‘s largest market than just showing up and finding the most popular and promising food stall. You really need to be careful which route you take through the market’s many aisles.

What you should not do, under any circumstances, is start your visit to Mercado San Camilo by walking up the stairs to the balcony that wraps around the second floor of the market.

Climbing stairs, Mercado San Camilo, Arequipa, Peru photo

Climbing with a heavy burden.

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Recipe for making Peru’s adobo arequipeño at home

March 19, 2013 by Lauren in Food, Peru, Recipes with 2 Comments

Adobo arequipeño, also known as adobo de chanco, is a traditional dish from Arequipa, Peru. Cooked overnight, adobo arequipeño is a popular hangover cure and Sunday brunch dish at Arequipa’s local picanterías, or “spicy shops.”

Though eating adobo arequipeño on bleary-eyed Sunday morning in Peru is an experience not to be missed, this recipe for making it at home is surprisingly straightforward and spicily satisfying.

Adobo arequipeño recipe from Arequipa, Peru photo

Adobo arequipeño pork stew from Arequipa, Peru made at home

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Today adobo, tomorrow the world: The best adobo in Arequipa, Peru

March 14, 2013 by Lauren in Food, Peru, Travel Stories with 5 Comments

A town in which the traditional Sunday brunch is a bowl of spicy pork stew is a town I can get with. I just hope that the adobo in Arequipa, Peru is actually good. I don’t want to get with something if the gettin’ ain’t good.

Elsita's adobo, Cayma district, Arequipa, Peru photo

Adobo arequipeño in the Arequipa, Peru’s Cayma district

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Jesuits and Catholics have their day

March 13, 2013 by Lauren in Peru, Travel Stories with 6 Comments
La Iglesia y Complejo de la Compañía, Arequipa, Peru photo

La Iglesia y Complejo de la Compañía

There are two things to do on a Sunday in Arequipa, Peru. One is to soothe your hangover with a bowl of adobo arequipeño, a spicy pork stew. The other is to go to church.

So I do as the Arequipeños do.

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Sh*t just got real…istic in Arequipa, Peru

March 7, 2013 by Lauren in Art, Peru, Travel Stories with 0 Comments

Nothing like wandering the streets of a new-to-me city and seeing this:

"El Lanlaco" cultural statue by Hnos. Yanqui. Arequipa, Peru photo

“El Lanlaco” by Hnos. Yanqui

This nightmare isn’t some Pan’s Labyrinth be-hoofed creature come to haunt the streets of Arequipa, Peru.

It’s Peruvian folklore, rendered large and hyper-realistic.
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Eating guinea pig: A pet at home, dinner in Peru

February 27, 2013 by Lauren in Food, Peru, Travel Stories with 10 Comments

An old saying begins, “If you love somebody, let them go.” If you’re traveling to Peru and you’ve had a guinea pig as a pet, a more fitting expression may be, “If you’ve loved something, put it in your belly.”

Our best photo of our feral guinea pig

Our best photo of our feral guinea pig

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