Seemingly infinite columns at the Mezquita | Photo by Lauren Girardin I’ve seen the light. No, not the intense noontime light filtering through the rattan roofing covering the streets of a medina. Not the sunlight sparkling off of multi-colored fractured…
In the Real Alcázar gardens | Art by Todd Berman We’ve found that half of Spain is on vacation, and another one-quarter of it is under construction. After an overnight stopover in Córdoba – where we wandered amongst poorly lit…
Jamón blackboard | Photo by Lauren Girardin I’ll learn soon enough that one should not seek out jamón, rather jamón happens to you (and happens often). No matter. On my first night in Spain, I’m in search of flavor and…
Outside Fes’ Medina | Art by Todd Berman As soon as the sun sets, everyone in Fes takes to the streets for a walk along the wide roads through Ville Nouvelle, or New Town. They’ve eaten at home already, or…
The Baron dances | Photo by Lauren Girardin, published in Everywhere Magazine At the same moment the man was burning a few days ago at Burning Man, Todd and I were just wrapping up a late-night Madrid tapa crawl with…
Kids in the Jewish Quarter of Fes | Photo by Lauren Girardin The grand taxi that takes us from the Sahara to Fes is not grand by definition, neither in largeness or in luxury. There’s no air conditioning and only…
Sahara sunset | Photo by Lauren Girardin Sometimes your love for a place comes on as hard and fast as food-poisoning. Other times, a place is forgettably bland, bringing on neither bitter aversion or the sweet desire to return. Then…
Where we ate: Over our more than two weeks in Morocco we ate at more places than we can list here. Since most were mediocre, here’s just the ones that seem worth mentioning, either for being worth seeking out or…
Humping through the Sahara, Morocco | Art by Todd Berman Riding a camel through the parched Sahara dunes is like riding a mechanical bull that has a banana seat, though a bull that moves in slow motion. Your one-humped ride…
This way to the Sahara| Photo by Lauren Girardin It’s 7 a.m in Marrakesh and Todd and I have just been sold from one tour agency to another, like so many camels.